DIY Kitchen Countertop Installation Made Simple

Check cabinets tops for level

Using a two or four-foot level, make sure the tops of all the kitchen cabinets are flush and level—from front to back and side to side. If your cabinets are not level, see if you can correct them before installing the countertops. If it is not possible to level cabinets, you may have to strategically use shims to level your countertop as you go.

Dry fit and mark countertops

Lay out the countertop sections on top of your cabinets to test their fit and plan your cuts. Keep the manufactured edges at the ends and align seams where base cabinets come together—this makes seams look purposeful rather than random.

Check walls and corners carefully, as they’re rarely perfectly straight or exactly 90-degrees. Use a straightedge or level to identify any irregularities, then scribe the back edge of the countertop to match the wall contour for a seamless fit.

Mark your final cut lines, accounting for any wall imperfections you discovered. Remember that even one or two degrees of adjustment can make the difference between seams that fit perfectly and ones that leave visible gaps.

How to cut kitchen countertops

Using a track saw, circular saw, or jigsaw with a fine-tooth blade, cut the countertop to the desired length and scribe any contours.

To prevent chipping of the countertop material, place a piece of painter’s tape on top of the marked cut line and position the track saw’s rubber edge on the side of the countertop you’re keeping/using. Depending on the material being installed, it may be necessary to lightly sand the cut edge.

Check the cuts

Place all of the cut pieces of countertop into position as you cut and before you secure it all to the cabinets. Ensure all seams fit tightly together and adjust placement to account for any wall irregularities. Make slight adjustments or re-scribe cuts if needed. For inside corners, make sure both pieces meet at a perfect 90-degree angle, as even small gaps will be noticeable.

Once everything fits properly, prepare the exposed edges if necessary (ours didn’t require it). Many laminate countertop manufacturers sell matching edge banding for newly cut exposed edges, such as next to a stove or at the end of a countertop run. Apply this edge banding before final installation—most types use iron-on adhesive, though some may require contact cement or nails. After application, use a file to smooth any sharp edges of the banding.

Secure from underneath

Once you are satisfied with placement and cuts of all pieces for the full countertop, start to secure to cabinets with screws from underneath, spacing them approximately every 12-to 16-in. along cabinet rails. Ensure you maintain a consistent overhang on the front. Before final securing, check that the countertop is level across all sections.

Some cabinets will have wood gussets to screw through and some cabinets will have metal hardware with open holes for screw placement when securing the countertop to the base cabinets. Make sure screws are long enough to reach the middle of your material and not too long to penetrate and damage the surface top. Adding small washers to your screws can help distribute the load. Use a pre-drill bit to slightly open the material and guide the screw in straight.

Where to begin securing the countertop?

• If your countertop incorporates a corner, start with the piece in the corner and double-check seams in both directions the countertop will run.
• If your countertop is a straight run and meets a wall at one end, start on the end where it meets the wall.
• If your countertop is a straight run with a manufactured edge on either end, start on one end but make sure you preserve a consistent overhang on the edge and front.
• Around sink cutouts and other openings, add additional screws for stability, placing them about 2 inches from the cutout edge.

Caulk the seams

Use kitchen/bath-grade or 100% silicone caulk to seal all the seams. If necessary, to hide seams, place a small bead of caulk along the seam and wipe back excess with a wet cloth. If your wall bows out, preventing the countertop from sitting flush against the wall, fill the open spaces with caulk.

Match the caulk to the dominant color of the countertop. Allow the caulk to fully cure according to the manufacturer’s instructions (typically 24 hours) before using the surface.

FAQ

How much of an overhang should I account for on the edge of a countertop?

Generally, countertops have an overhang of 1-1/2-in. However, while this is the standard, you might see overhangs between one and two inches depending on your cabinet depth and installation specifics.

Are countertops glued down or screwed down?

How you choose to secure and attach your countertops will be determined by the material of your countertop and the frame structure of your cabinets or where the countertop will rest. Some manufacturers recommend screws for a laminate countertop, and some recommend an adhesive with the laminate. If it is granite or quartz countertops, you will have to use some sort of silicone adhesive. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations to avoid failure in the durability of your countertops. Using the right kind of adhesive will only add to the success of your installation.

What is the depth of a standard countertop?

Kitchen Countertops are typically 25 1/2-in. deep.